Ford 6.0L PowerStroke Intake Removal and Installation Guide

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Ford 6.0L Powerstroke Intake Installation

Most of the re-installation steps are reverse of the removal process.  Instead of going into the exact steps to reinstall, I am only going to cover a few important points.  Like in step 26, before you reinstall your intake manifold make sure that you have looked into each cylinder head intake port for anything foreign. Plastic molded cylinder head intake port covers are preferred, but you can make your own with a piece of cardboard.

Make sure you replace the large black coolant o-ring in the front where the intake lays, the EGR cooler coolant o-ring, EGR passage gasket, as well as replacing the turbo oil feed gasket and drain o-rings.  The intake gasket kit is relatively inexpensive.  The rest of the kit is for the EGR system and the intake temperature sensor.  Technically the intake gaskets are considered reusable, however they do come in the kit so might as well use them. The Ford EGR cooler gasket kit does not include intake gaskets.

Care must be taken to be sure the EGR cooler gaskets get correctly mounted in the exhaust side as well as the intake EGR port.  You can use a tacky gasket holder to hold the gaskets as you assemble to ease the process.

When installing the intake, make sure that it sits flatly onto the cylinder heads.  It will sit slighty raised at the front where the intake gasket meets the coolant o-ring. If it is cocked anywhere else, try fiddling with the bolts that are stuck into the intake gasket to see if they are causing the problem.  If not, look for anything like a wire that is trapped underneath the intake.  Tighten the bolts down according to torque spec.

Install your wiring harnesses and be sure to plug in the IPR. The next step would be to install the turbo after you have taken it apart and cleaned it.  Yes, I told you to tear it apart and clean it.  Technically, the turbo can be installed almost last but it is much easier to get it in and out with the alternator having been removed. Replace the o-rings on the turbo drain tube if you have them.  The turbo bolts should be replaced now to prevent future problems later.  If you do not have new turbo bolts or any of those gaskets, you can make due without them but you can possibly have the bolts begin to round off or develop a oil leak. Take some dielectric grease and coat the o-rings of the turbo drain.  Be sure the turbo drain is properly mounted into the high pressure oil pump housing.  Take the turbo and maneuver it into its spot taking care not to strike the turbo drain and the set the turbo into place.  Install all three bolts, tighten, and then install exhaust clamps.  Make sure the up-pipe is completely sitting flush with the exhaust housing on the turbo.

If you have removed the up-pipes from the cylinder head or EGR cooler to up-pipe clamp: you may have trouble aligning the turbo Y pipe to the turbocharger.  In this case, I recommend only loosely installing the manifold to up-pipe bolts, EGR cooler clamp.  Once the turbo is completely installed, you should then go back and tighten the EGR cooler clamp and up-pipe to manifold bolts.

Once everything is back together, you should fill the system following my Coolant Fill Procedure.

  1. Drain the coolant by the radiator petcock.

  2. Remove degas bottle by removing 2 bolts and hoses.

  3. Unplug air filter sensor, mass air flow.

  4. Remove intake tube mounting bolts at front of FICM.

  5. Remove intake hose assembly. Becareful of PCV vent hose.

  6. Remove fresh air intake tube.

  7. Remove upper radiator hose.

  8. Remove two bolts from fan shroud cover, gentry pry away frpm radiator and then pull up while being careful not to break radiator nipple.

  9. Remove 4 fan mount bolts. **On 2003 engine, sometimes there is 5**

  10. Remove belt.

  11. Disconnect the alternator feed line located on passenger side battery.

  12. Remove alternator.

  13. Remove coolant bypass hose, remove 8mm bolt, bend tab up.

  14. Remove bolt in front of intake holding fuel lines to intake.

  15. Loosen and remove oil filter cap.

  16. Disconnect fuel lines from fuel filter.

  17. Remove 4 bolts attaching oil/fuel filter housing to oil cooler and remove. **Depending on harness routing, it may be necessary to unhook the harnesses before this step.**

  18. Remove four bolts holding down FICM (fuel injector conrol module), disconnect three harness connectors, and remove.

  19. Disconnect all 8 injectors, remove grounding nut at rear of driver side intake and remove injector harness.

  20. Disconnect turbo VGT, unbolt oil feed line to turbo.

  21. Loosen and remove downpipe exhuast clamp. Loosen uppipe exhaust clamp. May be necessary to use a short flat head screw driver to wedge into the clamp breaking it free at all three points.

  22. Remove 3 turbo hold down bolts. 2 are horizontal and accessible from the front. 1 is verticle and located just behind the downpipe. ** 2003 engines have the rear bolt going horizontal and rarely comes out without a fight.**

  23. Using a prybar, gently pry up on the turbo to release it from the oil drain tube. Remove. I always recommend disassembling and cleaning the turbo exhaust housing. Read more about that: Ford 6.0L Turbo Cleaning

  24. Disconnect IPR. It is covered by a heat shield located in the high pressure oil pump housing at the rear of the engine. **2003 engines you have to unhook the IPC*

  25. Disconnect all remaining connectors form main engine harness from right side of intake all the way to exhaust back pressure sensor. Pull it forward over the intake toward the fan.

  26. Loosen all intake manifold bolts. Ensure they are completely unthreaed from the head, but do not remove the bolts. Makes for easier installation. Be sure to remove all three EGR cooler bolts/nut.

  27. **2003 engines require the removal of the turbo pedastel since their intake design is different.**

  28. Remove the intake. Should not take much force to remove.

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