Ford 6.0L PowerStroke Intake Removal and Installation Guide

 6.0L Powerstroke Intake Removal

  1. Drain the coolant by the radiator petcock.  Make sure you properly dispose of all drained coolant.  I would not recommend reusing the old coolant but many places do.

  2. Remove degas bottle by removing 2 bolts and two hoses on top and the bottom hose. The bottom clamp can give you some struggle, but it is much easier to remove the filter housing with the degas bottle removed at this stage

  3. Unplug air filter restriction sensor and the mass air flow sensor.

  4. Remove intake tube mounting nuts at front of FICM.  Loosen the two worm gear hose clamps located on the intake tubes - one is on the inlet of the turbo, the second one is just after the PCV vent.

  5. Remove the front part of the intake hose assembly by lifting it free from the air filter.  Remove the air filter, and front air intake. Remove intake hose assembly attached to the turbo. Becareful of PCV vent hose. You may have to lift on the vent hose to get it to disengage.

  6. Unhook upper radiator hose from the radiator.  Place aside (bend behind oil dipstick tube, or remove completely).

  7. Remove both charged air cooler tubes. Pay attention to the location of the clamps and reinstall in same position.  Take a careful look at the elbow that comes out of the turbocharger.  These tend to crack/split with age.
  8. Remove two bolts from fan shroud cover.  This cover can be dealt with one of two ways: by gentry prying away from radiator (towards the engine) until the cover clears the radiator and then pulling up while being careful not to break radiator nipple, OR the cover can be split in two pieces at the designated spots on the side -  the cover then has to be bolted together upon assembly.

  9. Remove 4 fan shroud bolts. **On 2003 engine, sometimes there is 5**. It helps to have a deep 15mm 1/4inch socket with a 3 inch extension.  All bolts can be removed from the top, however it is easier to remove the lower ones from underneath.  Remember to unplug the fan.

  10. Remove belt.  With the fan shroud loosened and pulled forward, you can get a 1/2 ratchet into the slot on the tensioner to release belt tension but turning it clockwise.  Actual serpentine belt tool could be more useful though. Some technicians prefer to 'man handle' the belt and pull it off by hand or unbolt the alternator so the belt slips off of it.  I recommend just using the ratchet.

  11. Disconnect the alternator feed wire located on passenger side battery. Single red wire going to the positive post. Thread nut back onto the battery post for safe keeping.

  12. Remove alternator.  Disconnect electrical connector, and unbolt feed wire.  Thread nut back onto alternator for safe keeping.

  13. Remove coolant bypass hose from tube, remove 8mm bolt, and bend tab up. Bending the tab up gives clearance to remove the intake. The alternative to bending is removing the tube but then o-rings must be replaced (ordered separately). Although bending the tab is easier, eventually the tab is likely to break requiring the replacement of the tube.

  14. Remove bolt in front of intake holding fuel lines to intake.

  15. Loosen and remove oil filter cap. Loosening the cap releases the check valve allowing oil to drain into the crankcase. If you do not do this step, you will make a mess when removing the fuel filter/oil filter housing.  If you must replace the oil filter cap, do not use aftermarket caps - only use FORD OEM replacement.  Aftermarket caps do not let the check valve to work correctly. Inspect the oil filter drain valve for any signs of damage. Usually the plunger will break off the top and allow the spring to be removed - if thats the case, you need to replace it before assembly.

  16. Disconnect fuel lines from fuel filter. Various wrenches needed.  May be a good idea to put zip ties around each line so the nut can not fall down the tube.  If it does fall, you may be in for a rodeo with a magnet.

  17. Remove 4 torx bolts attaching oil/fuel filter housing to oil cooler and remove. **Depending on harness routing, it may be necessary to unhook the harnesses connectors before this step.**

  18. Remove four bolts holding down FICM (fuel injector control module), disconnect three harness connectors, and remove.  The three connectors are easily broken.  Care should be taken when pushing tabs on both sides.

  19. Disconnect all 8 injectors, remove grounding nut at rear of driver side intake and remove injector harness.  To unplug injectors, you push down on the small metal pin then pull it away. A small flat head screw driver may help push down the pin. Now the injector harness may be removed from the vehicle after detaching it from various hold downs.

  20. Disconnect turbo VGT solenoid.  These connectors break VERY easily. Carefully release the connector with a pick. There is a metal tab holding the wire to the turbo. Unbolt and remove the turbo oil feed. 

  21. Loosen and remove the down-pipe exhaust clamp. Loosen up-pipe exhaust clamp. The clamps will most likely be stuck to the pipe.  Take a stubby flat head screw driver and wedge it into the clamp at the corners.  The clamp is made of three metal strips tied together by a band so there is a total of 6 corners you can get access to.  Remove the clamps or reposition them to the turbo.

  22. Remove 3 turbo hold down bolts. 2 are horizontal and accessible with a wrench from the front on each side of the turbo. 1 is vertical and located just behind the down-pipe. A flex head ratchet, a 10mm deep socket, a 3inch combined with a 1inch extension gives perfect height to get back there OR a short 10mm and a 6inch extension will work. ** 2003 engines have the rear bolt going horizontal and rarely comes out without a fight. Sometimes will need to be torched out but likely will require you to use a swivel socket**

  23. Using a prybar, gently pry up between the turbo and pedestal to release it from the oil drain tube and up-pipe manifold assembly.  Remove the turbo.  I always recommend disassembling and cleaning the turbo exhaust housing. Read more about that: Ford 6.0L Turbo Cleaning

  24. Disconnect IPR. It is covered by a heat shield located in the high pressure oil pump housing at the rear of the engine. A bailing clip needs to be released to remove the connector. The connector, and the expensive IPR, are easily damaged. **2003 engines have a sheild covering all of this, and also have ICP located above the IPR that needs to be disconnected*

  25. Disconnect remaining connectors on top of the engine from the main engine harness from right side of intake all the way to exhaust back pressure sensor. Pull it forward over the intake toward the fan. You do not need to unplug the GPCM.

  26. This is a very important step.  Take a air blow gun and liberally spray air all around the valley, the intake, oil and EGR coolers.  This process helps eliminate possibility of contamination by anything that may be lingering there. Be sure to take a look around for any bolts that you may have dropped.  The extra time in this step can insure you do not have to replace your engine after you reassemble it.
  27. Loosen all intake manifold to cylinder head bolts.  Ensure they are all completely unthreaded where you could remove them and then lightly push them back down so the stick to the gasket. Makes for easier installation if you leave the with the manifold so you don't have to remember the order of the bolts.  Loosen EGR cooler bolt at rear and two bolts at front.

  28. **2003 engines also require the removal of the turbo pedastel since their intake design is different. Remove the turbo drain pipe, and then remove the four hold down bolts.**

  29. Time to remove the intake. Engines that currently still have EGR coolers are a little more tricky.  Using a large prybar, insert the tip under the intake, and lightly pry against the EGR cooler.  Be very careful. Once the EGR cooler coolant o-ring comes out of the intake, the intake should lift out fairly easy.

This is an excellent time to thoroughly to clean your parts because there is no reason to put it back together dirty and greasy. Once the intake is off, you now have access to all those other important components such as: the oil cooler, high pressure pump cover, EGR cooler. Continue reading on from steps concerning re-installation of the intake.