Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Replacing a Fuel Injector

6.0L Powerstroke Injector Removal and Installation

  1. Follow directions for proper removal of targeted valve cover.  See Table of Contents.
  2. Remove the oil stand pipe located in the rear of the oil rail. It looks like a pipe plug. (2003 model just release the clip holding on the oil feed and pull the hose aside)
  3. Remove the high pressure oil rail. 9 bolts total. Use the short T30 listed on page one with a tear drop ratchet for clearance on two bolts on the PS. (2003 uses 8mm bolts)
  4. Unplug the targeted injector by using your thumb or a screwdriver to push in the metal connector retainer. Using special injector harness release tool described on the first page, release the plug from the cylinder head OR use a 12 point 18mm deep socket in substitution for the tool.
  5. Loosen the T40 hold down bolt until fully unscrewed using hand tools only (T45 late builds). This action pulls the injector from the cylinder head.
  6. Grab the hold down and injector and remove together.
  7. Be sure that the copper washer is still attached to the removed injector, if not be sure to remove it from the injector cup.

You should be very careful when installing a new injector.  Not only are they extremely expensive, but doing it incorrectly can cause severe damage to your engine. If the injector is not properly torqued: the injector can become loose and cause damage if under torqued, the injector hold down clamp and bolt assembly as well as copper sealing washer damage will occur if over-torqued. If it has been over-torqued, replacement of the injector hold down assembly and injector cup will likely be required.

They have upgraded the stand pipe kit. A new standpipe kit may be required. The easiest way to tell if you have to old one or not is to observe the tool needed to remove it.  If it took a 1/2 inch extension adapter or a small Allen head socket you have the old design.  If it takes a large Allen head socket then you already have the updated version. The seals should be replaced on the new design.  You can also tell by examining the o-rings.  The new design has a white Teflon retainer ring located next to each o-ring.

NOTE:  If the seals on the stand pipe are damaged or leaking, it can cause extended cranking, hard start, and a no start hot.  The oil standpipe is very long.  On the passenger side, you have to separate the upper an lower pipe to remove and install the lower pipe before attaching the oil rail due to clearance from the HVAC box.

Always use an oil or grease on the injector O-rings to help installation and prevent damage.  We usually use dielectric grease. The fuel injector hold down only correctly fits onto the injector in one way.  Install the new injector and tighten to 26 ft lbs with the designated torx bit mentioned earlier. As you tighten the bolt, you will notice the injector being pushed down further into the cylinder head. Prelube the the fuel injector electrical connector and push it into the rocker box.  You should hear an audible click and make sure it is installed the correct way with the QR code facing up. Install each injector in this sequence.

NOTE:  There are two different styles of injector hold downs available.  One is the early style using the T40 bolt, and the other is the newer style that uses a T45 bolt.  These hold downs ARE NOT interchangeable and a fuel hydro locked situation will likely occur if the correct hold down was not used.  The differences depend on build date of the cylinder head so older engines may have the updated style if the head was ever replaced.  So be careful if swapping parts around off different engines.

Manually press the oil rail onto the injectors, and loosely install all bolts to assure it is centered. Tighten to 10 ft lbs in sequence starting from the inside working your way out. Install your new standpipe.  If a 2003 style engine, the oil feed line needs to be half hooked up as you set the oil rail down on the injectors.  Fully engage it once you have tightened the rail and tug on it to assure yourself a proper connection. Replace the standpipe and the hose if there are any issues.

Now reinstall the removed valve covers by placing the cover in position an loosely start all bolts before tightening a single one.  The rocker box on the head (the part the valve cover bolts too) is aluminum and is easily stripped out.

Lastly, once the engine is entirely reassembled and ready to crank there are a few things you should be aware of.  It takes quite a while to fill and bleed the air out of the oil manifolds that you removed.  Generally you should put a battery charger on to keep voltage up.  You will need to crank on the engine until it starts.  A good rule of thumb is to crank the engine for 20 seconds, rest for one minute, crank until start but no more than 30 seconds. If it still doesn't start, rest for one minute and crank again for 30 seconds.  Once you see the oil pressure gauge bounce up to normal, the engine will usually start within 10 more seconds of cranking.