Cab Removal on 6.4L Power Stroke Engine

One thing most people are well aware of about a Ford Super Duty equipped with a 6.4L Powerstroke engine is that removal of the cab makes some tasks a lot easier but is also a requirement for a few major tasks.  What ever your reason for removing the cab on this problematic engine, you will have so much more room after its off to do your repairs.

There are several reasons to remove the cab for even seemingly smaller repairs.  For most engine repairs, Ford recommends cab removal as the official preferred method.  A common 6.4L Powerstroke problem is broken oscillation pipes (up pipes).  While it is possible to change these with cab on, it does require the use of specially designed wrenches in the shape of half moons.  The pipes have specific torque specs and sequences that are very hard to perform with cab on.  An important note here due to not much room to work: Labor allowances for cab removal plus repair are generally less than labor allowance for the repair with cab on.

Their are several tools and pieces of equipment that are required to take this job on.  The process of actually raising the cab makes it pretty impossible to do without a 2 post lift.  Actually, I would downright recommend that you do not attempt this in any way without a proper lift.  Some have used jacks and stands to give them extra clearance but it sounds way to dangerous.

Most of the required steps are all about disconnecting hoses and wiring before lifting the cab. I will describe these in detail in just a moment. The real task of lifting a cab is removing the cab bolts.  There is 8 cab bolts on a super crew that hold the cab to the pickup frame.  These bolts are easy to access from underneath, but require very special attention.  The caged nuts that the cab bolts thread into are on the interior of the truck.  The bolts are also well equipped with locktite and seem like there are a mile too long.  They will fight you every inch of the way out and here is the real kicker: You should not use an impact wrench on them.  If you do, it will likely break the caged nut loose and it will just spin requiring you to tear apart the interior and manually hold the nut with a wrench.  Although, this is the preferred method for reliability and less likely to damage something.

A good ole' fashioned 1/2 inch extended ratchet with a pipe on the end of it work well to remove the bolts.  The key is doing this by hand and not using power tools.  Several good technicians have come up with a few creative ways to help remove these bolts.  One such was is using your hoist to lift up on the cab slightly while it is still bolted to the frame.  Then you can take a torch (or magnetic inductor like the Mini-Ductor II) and heat up the exposed head of the bolt to help loosen the locktite.  You have to be extra careful that you do not heat the bolt too much as damage to the body bushing or possible interior fires may result. With extra pressure on the cab nuts from the force of the lift and heat traveling up the bolt to heat the locktite should allow you to remove the bolts without the use of power tools.  You do not have to do both those steps.  Either one alone will help you succeed but together they will make the job easier.

Like previously mentioned, I recommend that you remove the interior trim and pull/move carpet out of the way enough to actually hold the caged nut with a ratchet.  The nuts are a 7/8 socket.  The front bolts are the only ones that are easy to get access to and sit just under the radiator in the core support.  I have torch heated a 7/8 wrench with a special bend in it to access and hold these nuts.

As far as disconnecting everything else, I will briefly describe it on the next page.