Ford 6.0L PowerStroke Intake Removal and Installation Guide

Ford 6.0L Powerstroke Intake Installation

Most of the re-installation steps are reverse of the removal process.  Instead of going into the exact steps to reinstall, I am only going to cover a few important points.  Like in step 26, before you reinstall your intake manifold make sure that you have looked into each cylinder head intake port for anything foreign. Plastic molded cylinder head intake port covers are preferred, but you can make your own with a piece of cardboard.

Make sure you replace the large black coolant o-ring in the front where the intake lays, the EGR cooler coolant o-ring, EGR passage gasket, as well as replacing the turbo oil feed gasket and drain o-rings.  It all comes as a EGR gasket kit. The rest of the kit is for the EGR system and the intake temperature sensor. Technically the intake gaskets are considered reusable, however they do come in the kit so might as well use them. The Ford EGR cooler gasket kit does not include intake gaskets.

Care must be taken to be sure the EGR cooler gaskets get correctly mounted in the exhaust side as well as the intake EGR port.  You can use a tacky gasket holder to hold the gaskets as you assemble to ease the process.

When installing the intake, make sure that it sits flatly onto the cylinder heads.  It will sit slighty raised at the front where the intake gasket meets the coolant o-ring. If it is cocked anywhere else, try fiddling with the bolts that are stuck into the intake gasket to see if they are causing the problem.  If not, look for anything like a wire that is trapped underneath the intake.  Tighten the bolts down according to torque spec.

Install your wiring harnesses and be sure to plug in the IPR. The next step would be to install the turbo after you have taken it apart and cleaned it.  Yes, I told you to tear it apart and clean it.  Technically, the turbo can be installed almost last but it is much easier to get it in and out with the alternator having been removed. Replace the o-rings on the turbo drain tube if you have them.  The turbo bolts should be replaced now to prevent future problems later.  If you do not have new turbo bolts or any of those gaskets, you can make due without them but you can possibly have the bolts begin to round off or develop a oil leak. Take some dielectric grease and coat the o-rings of the turbo drain.  Be sure the turbo drain is properly mounted into the high pressure oil pump housing.  Take the turbo and maneuver it into its spot taking care not to strike the turbo drain and the set the turbo into place.  Install all three bolts, tighten, and then install exhaust clamps.  Make sure the up-pipe is completely sitting flush with the exhaust housing on the turbo.

If you have removed the up-pipes from the cylinder head or EGR cooler to up-pipe clamp: you may have trouble aligning the turbo Y pipe to the turbocharger.  In this case, I recommend only loosely installing the manifold to up-pipe bolts, EGR cooler clamp.  Once the turbo is completely installed, you should then go back and tighten the EGR cooler clamp and up-pipe to manifold bolts. A leak back here will cause major black soot buildup in the engine compartment as well as a lack of boost and exhaust smell in the cab.

Once everything is back together, you should fill the system following my Coolant Fill Procedure.